This is my third visit to the island of Hawaii, aka the Big Island, to get close to the Kilauea volcanic magma. The first visit was by airplane, where there was a steady flow of glowing orange. I watched as the magma found its way down the side of Kilauea to the sea igniting trees like match sticks. The flight gave me a sense of the scale and power but I felt removed, not a part of it. I wanted to be closer.

On my second visit I received permission from the Park Service to walk across the Kalapana Field escorted by a park ranger. This time I could feel the heat of the magma just below my feet. We hiked across the crusted lava field created by the cooled magma. There was still magma flowing in tunnels, lots of it.

Our destination was to walk to where the magma spills into the ocean. Along the way there were three locations with openings in the crust called skylights. I could peer into the opening beneath the crust and see the flowing magma. The sun had just about set so the glowing orange magma against the dark sky was dramatic.

I didn’t like walking across the newly created lava field. It felt like walking on crushed glass, the sound was annoying besides it was ripping up the bottoms of my running shoes. I could feel the shoes heating up from walking on the warm surface. I kept wondering if they would melt or stick to the surface. Should I even be out here?

When I got close to the edge of one skylight to get a closer look at the magma flowing underfoot, there was no question, I should not be here. The temperature of the magma, about twelve inches from the bottom of my feet is 2000 F!

We reached the edge where the magma flowed into the ocean. All I could see was a huge stream plume. It was totally dark now and the plume was illuminated by the glowing magma. There was some orange reflected in the steam but not photographable.

It was then that I realized the only way to see the magma falling into the ocean was at sea looking back.

Doug Arnott, owner and operator of Arnott’s Lodge in Hilo has made all the arrangements for the magma visits. For this visit he scheduled a boat to take me out to view the magma flow looking back at the bluff.

The optimum time to arrive is just before sunrise. The light is sufficient to see the coast but not so bright to wash out the orange glow of the magma. To get there at sunrise requires getting up at 4 a.m. Doug offered to guide me to the rendezvous point then return to get a jump on his day. I felt bad that he had to get up early for my trip. That was, until we saw the view that awaited us.

There was a magnificent full moon directly overhead as we drove down the highway. There was neither vog (volcanic fog) nor a cloud in the sky. The moonlight was illuminating the top edge of the mountain ridgeline.

We were only on the road but a couple of minutes when Doug calls to thank me. “For what? Causing you to have to get up at 4a.m. to escort me to a gas station?” He said if he hadn’t he would have never seen this full moon. That’s how spectacular it was and the kind of guy he is.

Captain Shane and his co-captain arrived at the rendezvous point a little after 5 a.m. He apologized for being late, flat tire on the boat trailer. Doug returned to start his day’s tasks and I followed Shane to the boat launch ramp located in a nearby cove.

The launch ramp is located on the side of small cove where there were already a half a dozen surfers waiting for their first ride. The point where the magma flows into the ocean is 14 miles from the launch site. Shane has a 24 foot catamaran hull skiff with twin outboard motors. Shawn said we would get there in about a half an hour. The ocean was unusually calm enabling us to get there sooner. It was still dark along the shore but the sky was getting lighter.

At about five miles out there was enough light to see the steam plume caused by the magma entering the ocean. This was now starting to get exciting. The boat was going very fast so I had to sit down and hold on. There was so much sea spray I stowed my camera in the forward cubby. The only notable sights were flying fish skimming alongside the boat. It was too dark to distinguish any detail ashore.

It was light by the time we arrived at the steam plume. At the base there was some orange glow visible and occasionally explosions threw large amounts of ash and rock flying above the sea. We stayed there over an hour following a race track pattern in front of the steam cloud. The sea was much choppier here. Everything was dark and gray. It was perfect sight.

Once the boat slowed I could feel the heat from the steam. I had trouble keeping the lens clear of steam and water droplets. Every time we passed under the plume it would rain. The air was heavy with ash. The entire area has its own microclimate with rain, tornado and heat wave.

As we cruised along our path there were various sized pieces of newly formed lava stone. They were still hot enough to cause the surrounding seawater to bubble and hiss. Shane hooked one and brought it aboard with a pair of leather gloves. He cracked it open to show the inside was still glowing.

Due to an off shore breeze the plume passed over the boat. This was getting very exciting. The rumbling sound of the boiling magma, hissing steam, crashing waves and the droning engines made for a dramatic sound track. The visuals were even stronger. The steam closest to the source was pure white. As the steam rose and condensed it became darker than a thundercloud. Off to the side, little tornados or water spouts were spinning off from the main cloud. This was all happening in a very small area.

Along the edge of the bluff there were narrow slits of orange glow peeking out. The bluff was just a crust of lava holding back the magma behind. Shane said last night the magma was still exposed. He said overnight it had caramelized, much like a scab hiding the main flow.

The source of the lava flow is the vent at the top of Mt Kilauea, one of the world’s youngest and most active volcanoes. Kilauea has its own magma-plumbing system, originating from more than 45 miles deep in the earth.

The heavy steam blocked the view of the orange flow, which was my primary objective. Occasionally, the wind would clear some of the steam and I was able to photograph some of the hidden magma. It was like trying to photograph bolts of lightning in a thunderstorm while riding a unicycle.

The return was of amusement park quality. Most of the way back I was tittering on my coccyx with either my arms or may legs flailing in the air. The swells had increased sufficiently to cause the boat to regularly come completely out of the water. I would start with both feet firmly planted on the deck. As boat landed everything would lurch forward and end with my feet pointing straight up. I quickly gave up trying to photograph the flying fish. This concludes my search for the perfect magma image. Maybe it is time I seriously consider studio photography.

If you are in the area, in addition to thrilling boat rides, Arnott’s Lodge offers hiking and cycling ventures www.arnottslodge.com

© Copyright Michael Morrissey, All Rights Reserved.

Michael Morrissey is considered one of the new generation of adventure and travel photographers. Based in Bangkok, Thailand with a passion for travel, Michael got hooked on photography while driving a bus from Istanbul to Katmandu in the 70’s; an obsession briefly interrupted with a twenty year career in business. You can view his photography at: www.mjmorrissey.com

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